“You live WHERE?”
by Virginia Parker
Photos by Tyrone Fowler
Whenever I need to give my address to someone in the UAE – be it for receiving my credit card through the bank, chatting with a new friend in Dubai, or to get a bookshelf from IKEA – I am generally faced with bewilderment.
“Madinat Zayed. No, no, not the gold souq area in Abu Dhabi. Here, let me draw you a map. It’s also called Beda Zayed. Wait. Have you ever been to Liwa? Have you read Arabian Sands?”
The Western Zone, Al Gharbia, comprises 70% of the total area of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and yet I routinely meet people who have spent years and years living in the UAE without ever having set foot on the shifting sands of one of the most beautiful
areas in the world. Madinat Zayed, the capital, is only an hour and a half outside of Abu Dhabi in distance, but somehow worlds away in feeling.
Don’t get me wrong, I love Abu Dhabi, but I love it for the way that I feel like I’m in Toronto, Tokyo or Seoul, surrounded by Starbucks and Second Cup, La Senza and The Gap. Out here in Madinat Zayed, we get to experience the “real” flavours and sights of the country, but without sacrificing too many creature comforts (Right, here’s no Starbucks but….). The burqa-wearing women of the Heritage Village by the Marina Mall? They look exactly like the mothers who come for meetings at my school.
And so, you may ask, what exactly is there to do out here? In the five months since our arrival, my husband and I have explored as much of this area as we can. Our experiences have ranged from the typically Emirati to the mildly absurd. We’ve seen falcon races and explored the forts of Liwa, but have also toured a fish farm located in the middle of the desert and wandered around the Rainbow Sheikh’s incredible car museum.
Mundane activities, such as the 65km commute between MZ and the Liwa Hotel (“home” for many people who are still awaiting permanent accommodation in town), become chances to see black Bedu tents surrounded by herds of camels, or glimpse a few endangered Arabian gazelles grazing on the trees by the side of the road. Smooth glimmering dunes become perfect spots for stargazing as you camp out on a weekend night.
Our students, too, live different lives from what I could have imagined before coming here. A simple chat about wedding preparations or the colour of your kandura becomes a fascinating view into the daily lives of a newly opened culture. And no, all of our girls are not just getting married after graduation. Although there are those who do, many of them have their sights set on university instead.
There are a few special events that have happened here as well. The Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge, on par with the Paris-Dakkar Rally, took place last March, attracting competitors from all over the world, and providing a bit of entertainment and opportunities for some of us. There was another surprise visit a few weeks later,
this time by a camera crew from Top Gear (and yes, Mr Richard Hammond was there too). If these people are willing to travel halfway around the world to experience this part of the UAE, why don’t more people come out from Abu
Dhabi?
Of course, certain frustrations that come with small town life exist. We need to visit Abu Dhabi for some items, and there is a certain respect of traditional values that one must constantly be aware of (no knee-length skirts for me!). Life out here isn’t the most fast-paced or thrilling that you’ll find, but it is still worth the drive outside the city.
limits.
P.S. Just realized that the photos didn't load -- will have to do them from Ty's computer...
Very professional! Truly informative too. I'd really like to see the pics too...can you upload them into the body of the text where you originally meant for them to go?
ReplyDeleteI cant believe people would look down their noses at you
ReplyDeleteYou two are awesome. You know how to experience life and what it offers to it's fullest. No wasting of opportunities and no bemoaning the lack of anything..just living the experience for what it is. Thank you for sharing your insights. It shows us armchair travellers your world
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