Womad in Abu Dhabi

Well.... Ty wrote a huge long blog about last weekend in Abu Dhabi, at the WOMAD Festival, but the computer/Blogger ate it. We're wondering if it will randomly appear at some moment, but in the meantime....

(p.s. All the links will lead you to videos on youtube of the different artists -- none of the videos are ours)

For those of you who aren't familiar with WOMAD, it stands for "World of Music, Art and Dance". It was originally started up by Peter Gabriel in the 80s and has taken place in dozens of countries over the years. This was the first time it was happening in the Middle East. WOMAD tends to focus mostly on world music... It isn't straight folk music, but a presentation of traditional musicians who blend their art with current music trends.

We left directly from work on Thursday afternoon, with Linda and Carolyn (work colleagues) along for the ride. Carolyn had reserved hotel rooms for us at a hotel which was just off the Corniche (where the concert was taking place). This meant that we were only a few minutes' walk from the action. As a bonus, we ended up at the same hotel as many of the musicians -- including Robert Plant, who was headlining the final night.

The concert series on Thursday night started off with Korean music. We (Carolyn, Ty and I) had actually timed our arrival so that we would be sure to be up at the front for the show. The crowd was full of Koreans, and we chatted with a few of them (searching for words, now that Arabic is taking over). The group, Dulsori, used huge standing drums, wooden temple bells, traditional singing and a sort of Korean zither. It was an amazing show -- the music being more harmonious than "real" Korean singing. I'll have to admit that I felt a bit homesick for Korea while listening...

As WOMAD was happening on a beach with two stages, with alternating shows, you had a choice to either get yourself up to one of the stages, or watch what was happening on big screens. You could also just sit at the water's edge and listen. We ended up doing that for the rest of the evening, as we were just a bit tired. Because of the temperatures here, the shows didn't start until 7 pm, continuing until past midnight. We really wanted to be in shape for the following night, when Youssou N'Dour would take the stage.

The next evening, Friday, we headed back to catch The Dhol Foundation, from the UK and India. I'm not sure if I can accurately describe the mix of Celtic and Punjabi music, with traditional vocals and a dancey backbeat.... so you'll just have to listen and watch instead. We got to meet them all later on, when we bought a CD and they signed it. They were very nice guys too! The next day, we saw them again, when they led the Opening Procession up the beach.

After the pure energy of The Dhol Foundation, we took a break and sat on the beach. From there, we could listen to some of the other performers. We also did a bit of shopping (There weren't enough things to buy there!!!!!!!!!!!!) and looked at a lady making "Rangoli" art with fruits and spices in a neat design.

The next artists that we were anxious to see were Etran Finatawa from Africa. We'd seen them, in their distinctive turbans, in the hotel lobby. I'd only ever seen people with the facepaint like that in National Geographic, so it was a real treat to see them live.

Sound problems from the other stage kept us from appreciating the rather odd performance of "China's Bjork", Sa Ding Ding.... We could see her on the screen, but couldn't hear much of what she was doing. We didn't dare move, however, as we were in the best spot (having found our friends Grant and Dianne in the crowd) for Youssou N'Dour.

You may or may not recognize that name. Youssou N'Dour is a Senegalese singer who has sung with several people, but is probably best known for a song he did with Neneh Cherry back in the 90s called "Seven Seconds". He was the main act on Friday and didn't come on until midnight. He'd brought with him an absolutely insane dancer - in this video, you'll see that someone throws his ghutra up on stage as a gift.

The next night, Saturday, was all about Robert Plant. While WOMAD had been advertised here for a few months, Robert Plant's presence on Saturday was a relatively new announcement. We didn't know if he'd only come on for a song or two, or if he'd be a major feature of the show. Deciding to stay later meant that I'd probably not get a full night's sleep before heading to work the next day, but we were sure that it would be worth it.

And it was!

It started with a group made up of musicians from Gambia and the UK. Once again, we were treated to a mix of traditional vocals and drums with electric guitar. About three songs into the set, Robert Plant arrived. The rest of the show is a bit of a blur - his voice is so distinctive, and listening to him live on a beach is certainly the chance of a lifetime. He *did* do a few old Led Zep songs (like Black Dog, yes Meron, you were right), which made us all go a bit nuts. My favourite song of the night, however, was the Leadbelly song Black Girl, made famous by Nirvana (and now Robert Plant hehehe).

Alright... the computer has died twice since I started writing this... so we'll upload our own photos and videos another time.

Today (yay, another weekend), we are off to the Al Gharbia Watersports Festival -maybe a chance to camp on the beach, or (for Ty) to try kiteboarding. Inshallah, there will be another interesting blog for you to read in a few days.

The coming weekend (featuring Robert Plant)

Just in case you're wondering what we'll be up to this weekend -- WOMAD Abu Dhabi.

The full line-up can be found here.

What do you think.... should we stay later on Saturday night to see Robert Plant play in a free concert on the beach, even though I have to work early Sunday morning (the weeks are Sunday-Thursday here, remember)?

Jebel Dhanna Resort Weekend

It isn't often that one goes to the beach to cool down, but now that daytime temps are hitting 35+ (add about 10 degrees to that if you happen to be standing on a dune in the middle of the day), we decided to flee to the coast.

Last weekend (like a week ago, not yesterday), we'd driven up to Jebel Dhanna to see what was there. The drive, 2 hours through NOTHING BUT SAND DUNES, is enjoyable enough, but once we'd seen the super-lux hotel and had a bank-breaking lunch, we felt that we needed a way to celebrate our 4-month wedding anniversary. Checking the internet, we found an awesome deal. The Jebel Dhanna resort tends to start at about $500 a night. Booking online brought the price down to less than half that (Sidenote: If you're ever thinking of visiting the UAE, off-season hotel prices and the current economic climate means that you can get huge deals).

And so, on Friday morning, we set off for Jebel Dhanna and our little slice of paradise. We arrived in the afternoon, and couldn't believe our luck. Because of random promotional deals, we were offered a dinner buffet on the beach with a Colombian band, and a boat ride in the Arabian Gulf the next day.

The view from the room...

Our room, overlooking the Gulf and the white-sand beach, gave us a view of turquoise-fading-to-crystal-clear ocean. Without wasting any time, we headed down to the beach, where an attendant set our towels out on the chaise-longues for us (there were other attendants walking on the beach, offering fresh cut fruit or an Evian spray -- yes, it is that kind of hotel). The lady to the right of us was wearing a "beach abaya" (like a wet suit that covers the head as well, leaving only the face and hands exposed), while the rather more modern Arabs to the left of us chatted with British accents about their sex lives. Made for an interesting cultural collide!

We waded out into the sea, which never hits more than knee-deep until you're about 500 metres out. It's like walking in bathwater - so warm. And yes... crystal clear!

The Columbian beach party was awesome. Great food (The UAE is the land of buffets... it's amazing!), and two mamacitas in white, backed by a small latin band, singing while the waves lapped in the background. Yup... paradise!

The next morning, Saturday, we were rudely awoken by the alarm that rang at 5, then 5:15, then 5:30, and so on... until we finally figured out how to turn it off.

Ty succumbs to the mystical energy sucking powers of the duvet...

The duvet kept sucking us back into bed until we finally made it down to the breakfast buffet (I swear, I will not be able to eat a normal meal once I leave here, and will probably find myself wandering around dining rooms, taking a spoonful of something off everyone's plate. I am so used to buffets now!).

We then headed for our free boat ride in the Gulf. It was a quick ride, and there wasn't much to see, but it was great to be on the open water.

After checking out, we wandered back to the beach where we were first attacked by a hammock that refused to let us go, then lolled about on the beach until the last possible minute. It was really too short of a visit (only one night), but for what was included, the price was right and as we left for our drive through the desert back to the Liwa (Yes, we took a break from living in a hotel by going to a different hotel....), we both felt the most relaxed we've felt in ages....

Ty's camera skills make me look arty and happy...

School Festivals

In every school around the world, there are always special events. I think of the Athletisme (Track and Field day) in La Pocatiere, or the myriad of random festivals that happened in Korea. The UAE is no different.

Last Sunday was the opening ceremony of a week-long Heritage Festival at my school. Ty got his own special laminated invitation from my principal, and arrived with his camera in hand. Given the relative lack of exposure to the outside world that my students get, Ty always causes a bit of a stir whenever he comes to my school (the girls just love him -- and a few have decided that he needs another wife *ahem!*).

On this morning, there was a huge group of Emirati men, greeting each other with the traditional nose-rub.... which is, yeah, a bit weird the first time you see it.

We all headed to the gym, where big comfy chairs and couches had been set out for the men, while the women sat on normal folding chairs behind them, their faces veiled. The national anthem was played, there were a few speeches, and students circulated with coffee and chocolates for those of us who were seated.

A few elementary and middle schools were on hand to sing songs about how great the flag was...

...and a local kindergarten group did a skit about a wise old teacher surrounded by his students who was suddenly attacked by Batman and then pink birdies came out and danced. I'm assuming that the last part may have been lost in translation....

We all headed outside, where a huge display about Emirati life had been set up. It was made to resemble a traditional house, with palm-frond walls, and women doing handicrafts and henna inside. There were some great museum-like displays of photos, and a few old coins and jewellery that had been dug up in the desert. We tasted camel milk (which is a bit salty) and Ty snuck a few photos of the burqa ladies (mothers of my students).

The coolest thing, though, was the loud, complaining camel that I was unceremoniously tossed onto. The only thing to hold onto was a metal bar, and I'll admit that I screamed a bit as it stood up. I wasn't the only one to ride (and squeal a bit) on the camel, though.

Nahla, our office translator, showed us that it is possible to look gorgeous while mounted on a rather uncooperative beast.

Wee update:

The past few weeks have been a bit eventful.

- We attended the gala dinner/awards ceremony of the Desert Challenge, which was quite the splashy affair.

- Jakob, our beastie, fell very ill and had to be rushed to a vet's in Abu Dhabi where he spent 4 days on IV because he was so dehydrated. He's now at Paul's again and almost back to full health.

- Ty and I had to gather about 50 million different bits of paperwork and go to the Canadian Embassy in Abu Dhabi to get him a tourist visa for Canada for our visit in July/August. We've got the visa now. Yay.

- Work is busy busy busy... but once May/June comes around, it's going to (probably) be a lot calmer, as it will be the exam session/end of term.

- Ty has an Emirati driver's license now... After 3 months, we seem to finally have come to the end of the constant paperwork and red tape. Oh, except for our liquor license, which we'll have to get at some point.

- It seems like we'll be in the hotel for a few more months (!!!!!). We've actually started furnishing the place (coffee maker, computer, shelves) as if it's our home. It's fine and all, just wish we could have the cats here, and I really do hate waking up so early to go to work.

- It's HOT and getting HOTTER, and yes, we had a few freak storms out here - big winds, lots of rain, hail, floods up in Dubai.